Egypt – Dahab

2009 March —–

From Luxor we flew to Dahab in the south Sinai, just 18 kilometres across the Sea of Arabia (Red Sea). We can see Saudi Arabia.  The people here are so laid back.  It is a diving community and my dive instructor said 70% of the people are non Egyptian.  There are many markets and bazaars here, but they don’t come out and shove stuff in your face like they did in Aswan or Luxor.

I got my scuba diving certification!!  What a wonderful world under the water, just like being in a giant aquarium!!   I saw a giant clam, parrot fish, angel fish, and best of all a stone fish – even my dive instructor said they are really rare to see; as the name implies, they look like a stone…..  Since this is why we are in this particular place (to dive) we didn’t do much else.  There really is nothing else to do.  People come here to dive, that’s it.  I met a few people who said they have been to Egypt 6 times, and every time they say they will go to Luxor or Giza; but they never seem to leave Dahab…… One gal was even trying to get her plane ticket changed so she could stay another week. 

There are some tours one can take to Mount Sinai and a monastery that was built on the spot where Moses encountered the burning bush, but we didn’t go.  After seeing these mountains and the terrain, I have a whole new respect for Moses and his band of Merry Jewish.  Talk about rugged and barren and DRY!!

I think the best part of this trip is meeting the local people.  They are unbelievably friendly.  Everyone says hello, welcome back, where you from.  They remember you when you do go back into a shop and treat you like you are a long lost friend, especially in Dahab.

A restaurant owner who also has an alabaster shop who told us stories of his drunken / stoned travels across Europe when he was young and single (hilarious)

The streets are not exactly clean, but not disgustingly filthy either.  Watch for horse and camel shit in the touristy places, watch for traffic everywhere – the lines on the road are just for decoration, I’m sure. They honk their horns continuously, to warn foot traffic, other cars; to someone they see on the street, at intersections, and for the most part, just for the hell of it.   People walk in the middle of the road along with the cars in every place we’ve been, along with the odd stray camel.  They must escape from some tour group since many have a saddle.  The quintessential little barefoot kids with ratty clothes and messed hair trying to sell bracelets and necklaces.  But somehow it is all so calm and relaxing.  No one is in a hurry.  Sit, enjoy your meal, then we talk, have another karkade (hibiscus tea – yummy) then they have a cigarette or two or three, and then OK, I guess it’s time to go / discuss / whatever. 

 
It is crazy to see some guy dressed in the traditional almost middle aged fashion talking on his cell phone while riding a camel,  There are cats everywhere (Carrie, you’d go nuts!!)  In the restaurants they give you a spritz bottle to ward them off, they are so bad.  As well as the odd (well, less than cats anyway) dog.  It is very popular to sit on cushions around a coffee table and have meals.  Very relaxed.  Except when the dog chased the cat under the table and the whole thing when flying – food and all.  It didn’t happen to us, but at a table in the next cabana when I was diving.  Hilarious, but not so for the guys who’s food went flying.

All in all, it’s a beautiful place, one I would recommend to anyone to come and experience.  It’s not your 5 star holiday, but the friendliness of the people more than make up for the lack of accommodations.  We get the goofiest towel arrangements on the bed.  One time like a crocodile, another time like a man (complete with sunglasses) smoking a water pipe (scared the crap out of me when I opened the door) as well as the swans and heart shapes.  They even fancy up the food.  Michaela’s pancakes were cut and arranged like shrimp cocktail.  The tahini (Sesame seeds and olive oil blended together into a dipping sauce) had designs on it (in was ketchup, but still pretty) they fall all over themselves to make you want to go back.  But as we found out, most of them work on commissions so it is no surprise they want you back