Portugal – Evora

2017 September —–

Evora is partially enclosed by medieval walls and has a very well preserved town centre which contributes to its being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We tried to find the Monastery vineyard but were unsuccessful. We definitely found the Monastery but were told that the winery was at a different location, which we did not find.

What we did find were the aqueducts. They go on for kilometres with their graceful arches. Streets and roads run under the arches, that can reach 25 metres in height. Buildings run over, around and beside the arches. The arches form parts of house walls, either as an entire side of the house or as dividers between houses.

Once inside the old city walls, we easily found our guesthouse, Casa dos Teles. It is right in the heart of the old city and an easy walk to everything we wanted to see. Our room was not quite ready, so we dropped our bags and set off to the public park to eat our lunch. There were large benches under the massive trees and was a beautiful and cool place to enjoy the provisions we had bought in Ericeira.

After lunch, we decided to check out the town. The streets are very medieval – narrow and crooked. We wandered and got delightfully lost. Thankfully, we were never out of sight of a church steeple, which were all in different directions and helped guide us. We eventually found the Thermal Roman Baths. They were inside the existing municipal building. The offices were built around the ancient baths. The Diana Roman Temple was completely covered in tarps and obviously under repairs.

Evora Cathedral

Evora Cathedral sits on the highest hill in the city. Built after the Christians ousted the Arabs in 1166, the cathedral was built between 1184-1204. It was declared a UNESCO site in 1988.

We headed straight for the roof. It is large enough to appear like a park square with a slightly crested path (the peak of the roof). There are two massive towers at each end with battlements on either side. Off in the distance, we saw more aqueducts zig-zagging into the distance. We also could see down into the cloister garden.

Descending back into the church we stopped in the balcony choir. The rich wooden choir benches are always elaborately carved, and this one is no different. However, because this choir is in a balcony that overlooked the central nave of the church, there are large windows that light up the rich wood and really bring out the delicate carvings and enhance the colour of the wood. We usually view cathedral ceilings from the aisle floor. Looking down upon the nave made the columns look even taller. We were on the same level as the organ, again, usually only seen by looking upward. Looking horizontally at the organ, we could appreciate the ornateness of it. I pitied any people who were up here when the organ was being played!

On the main level, it was interesting to look back up at the choir and organ. The church interior has smooth brick-like stones, giving it a more polished look. There is an abundance of gold chapels and ornaments. The Virgin Mary in this church does not hold the baby Jesus in her arms but is still pregnant with him. Two Gothic rose windows bathe the transepts with light.

From the cloisters, we could reach the roof covering them via a steep and narrow spiral staircase.

Praça do Giraldo

We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying a beer in Praça do Giraldo. It is the main square and has a many open aired cafes and a relaxing ambiance. The square has anything but a tranquil history. It is named after the folklore hero Giraldo Sem Pavor who helped Alfonso Henriques expel the Moors during the Christian Crusades of Portugal in the 1160’s. Evora further honors him by having his image on the city’s coat of arms. It is a disturbing image of Girlado riding a horse while severing the heads of a Moorish man and woman with his blood-stained sword. Then in 1484 King John II beheaded his brother-in-law for conspiring with the Spanish to overthrow the Portuguese King. Later, during the Spanish Inquisitions, 22,000 people were condemned over a 200 year period. In 1573 convicts were burnt alive on giant pyres that were constructed in the centre of the square. At one end of the square is the Henriquina Fountain, built in 1531-1536. It marks the original outlet of the aqueduct water. At least they had clean water to wash the steps of St. Anton’s Church after the pyres burned out.

The beer was good.

We came across a small shop where I bought a summery dress. It had been so hot that even shorts and t-shirt were too hot. It was in the shop that we saw a young lady in a Harry Potter type cape and black skirt suit complete with black tie. This is actually the Portuguese University uniform. JK Rowling got the Hogwarts uniform idea from the time she spent in Portugal.

We returned to our guesthouse to retire for the evening. When we reached our third-floor suite, Ed asked “How much are we paying for this?”, as it was spacious and had a kitchen and huge bathroom. I replied we were paying a mere $68!

Bone Chapel

The next day, we went to see the Bone Chapel, which is part of the Igreja de Sao Francisco. During the 16th century, the 43 graveyards surrounding Evora were getting full so the monks exhumed the bones to make room for more bodies. (possibly due to the inquisition?) The existing bones were cast into cement and housed in the 13th century chapel. It is meant to be a place to meditate on the transience of material things and the inevitability of death. 5000 bones intricately line the entire chapel with skulls lining the ceiling and walls, watching you. Creepy. The sign over the entry door says “We bones are here waiting for yours”. There is only one tomb, and that is for the three Franciscan monks who founded the church.

In 1808 invading French troops demanded all gold not used directly in religious services be handed over. 85 kg was sent. However, later that year the French entered Evora and looted it, killing many civilians. The assistant to the Archbishop was also killed. His remains are in a floor tomb in the Chapel of Bones.

A poem on one of the pillars says: “Where are you going in such a hurry traveler? Pause… do not advance your travel; You have no greater concern than this one: that on which you focus your sight. Recall how many have passed from this world. Reflect on your similar end. There is good reason to reflect if only all did the same. Ponder, you so influenced by fate, among all the many concerns of the world, so little do you reflect on death; If by chance you glance at this place, Stop… for the sake of your journey, the more you pause, the further on your journey you will be.”

Igreja de Sao Francisco

We then did a quick tour through Igreja de Sao Francisco. Their museum had your usual collection of religious artifacts of statues, paintings, and tapestries. I especially found a child John the Baptist with real hair to be quite interesting.

There is one entire section that housed only nativity scenes from all over the world. Some were old and some were very contemporary. Some were made from gourds while others were made of glass or even banana leaf. Some were somber while others were whimsical.

The church, built between 1475-1550, is quite plain – except for the huge golden altar. It could be because in 1513 Leo X decreed all Franciscan monks return to strict poverty and requirements of the original rule of St. Francis. Interestingly, the stained glass windows looked modern. They did not depict religious scenes at all. The sun shining through one such window cast a pretty colourful glow on the prayer candles. It was like God was smiling on them.

After the church, we went to the Museum of Evora. It had less religious artifacts and a lot more actual history. We were getting museum’ed out and didn’t really give it a thorough exploration. I found some of the whimsical statues more to my taste that day. 

We were anxious to be on our way to Seville. Ed has wanted to go to Seville for years, and we were just a few hours drive away. However, we had to pass Monsaraz with its medieval castle high on a hill. We had plenty of time so we turned in.