EGYPT – MOSES MOUNTAIN

February 13, 2023

Moses Mountain (Jabal Musa in Arabic) is the Mount Sinai talked about in the Bible where Moses purportedly got the Ten Commandments from God. It is a relatively high mountain at 2285 metres (7497 ft.)

I caught the bus at 8:00 pm for the 3:00 am hike to the summit, in order to see the sun rise. We were stopped by many roadside police checkpoints before we arrived at the site and commenced our nearly 800 metre (2500 ft) ascent in total darkness. Only our headlamps guided the way.

There were camels for rent to take those less willing or able to walk.

It was cold and I was glad I wore my long underwear and raincoat and pants to protect me. Along the way, many people were heading back down – too tired to continue the trek up. That said, there were a few tea houses to rest at. They were mostly stone with some wooden features.

At one stop, the guide pointed upward and said, “That is where we are headed. Can you see it?” All I could see was a looming black mass of a mountain. The edge was only discernible because I could see stars above it. I thought he was joking. He wasn’t. On the trek down, I stopped at the same tea house and looked up. The church was barely a pimple on the top of the huge mountain.

The last kilometre was a series of 750+ “steps”. I hesitate to call the mish-mash of stones actual steps.

Near the top was the final tea house. Dozens of people were already there, huddled inside with rented heavy blankets to protect them from the cold. They were slumped in every corner of the shack and even some outside. It looked like a refugee camp.

I had to go to the bathroom and someone motioned that it was behind another building. I stepped out from between the buildings and was aghast at how strong the wind was. I could sort of see in the dim pre-dawn and could make out deep crevasses and cliffs with a stone outhouse perched on the edge. I carefully made my way over to it. The door was only hanging on with the bottom hinge and therefore lopsided. As I went to open it, someone indicated they were already inside. I apologized and stepped back.

When it was my turn, I also found I could not close the door properly. Oh well, never mind. Do your business. As I sat down over the hole, the wind was blowing up from the hole with such force that my pee did not exactly do what gravity was supposed to take care of. The paper I used came flying back up and out of the hole. To say the winds were strong would be an understatement. As I made my way back to the shelter, a man approached and asked for bakshish. I pretended I didn’t see or hear him.

Finally, a glimmer of dawn started to seep over the crest of the surrounding mountains. Everyone made their way the final 15 minutes to the top of the mountain. Now that it was semi-daylight I could see that there were hundreds of people!

There is a small church at the very top. There were people sitting on every slope and wall available. I found a small area protected from the hellacious wind. I was glad I made the 3-hour trek to the top, but as soon as that sun popped over the horizon, I left. It was bloody cold!! SIDE NOTE: This area has the coldest nights of anywhere else in Egypt.

I took a few pictures of the beautiful mountains with the sun casting golden light onto them. The blue sky made for the perfect contrast. I thought to myself, “If this is this is the landscape that the Jews wandered in for 40 years, I have a whole new respect for them!”

Coming back down I was grateful that I had climbed in the dark, with only about 10 feet of my path lighted. It was a scary route! I heard many people making the same comment.

However, once past the 750+ “steps” the route was actually quite pleasant. It wasn’t ridiculously steep and the path widened, allowing for some breathtaking views.

In places, I had a good view of the trail cutting switchbacks down to the Monastery. There was frost on the rocks.

It was interesting to see what I had walked past and not noticed on the way up. There was a huge rock that looked like the top of a skull.

Way up on the side of a cliff was a dwelling that blended into the rocks so well if it had not been for a green tree poking out, I would have completely missed it. Who lived up there? It looked large enough to house a large family or small monastery.

The trek started and ended at the 6th-century St. Catherine’s Monastery. Monks settled here in the 3rd century.

Christianity, Islam and Judaism all hold this place sacred. The entire area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002.

It is a walled area and visiting is done in small groups in order to accommodate the nearly 1300 daily tourists. As such, it was hurried and I did not see much. One of the first things we saw was the Biblical “burning bush” that was on fire but not consumed by the flames. (Exodus 3:2)

We were brought into a small church full of hanging lanterns. I forgot the significance of the chapel, but there was a strict no-photos rule. Sorry, my phone accidentally took one.

There is a chapel that houses a rock that is considered to be the source for the Tablets of Stone. It was not open to the public The Well of Moses (Exodus 2:15-21) was also on location, but swarmed by people so I could not get close. By the time I could get near, the tour guide was calling for us to assemble for the long ride back to Sharm el Shiekh.

On the drive back, we passed lots of construction of buildings. I imagine they will be either condominiums or hotels and restaurants. I’m sure Moses would be pleased…”Opening Soon. The Manna Cafe and Gift Shop”