March 24-27, 2023
I was back at Victor’s place. He kindly kept one suitcase for me while I was touring around Europe and Northern Africa. I had to keep it light while being on the constant move.
It was my last day in Europe and the weather was grand. I took the train to Sintra and saw some places I had not heard about before. (note to self: do more research!)
It hard to miss the Town Hall with its Disney-like features. It has a massive clock tower and spires that are glazed in reflective green and white tiles and topped with an armillary sphere.
You get a real sense of how high the Moorish Castle is when you are at the bottom of the hill. It is no wonder they set up a defense fort up there. You can see for miles!
I am walking along and come to a group of sidewalk vendors. I am walking past, not interested in anything they have for sale, when suddenly a postcard jumps out at me. “Where is this?” I ask. The guy explained and I was immediately headed in the direction of Quinta da Regaleira.
I had passed Beister Palace on my way to the more popular Pena Palace and did not even give it a second glance. I mistook this entrance for the Quinta da Regaleira, so I went in. Lucky me for my mistake. Built in 1887, it was the residence of the wealthy merchant Frederico Biester and his wife Claudina Ermelinda Chamiço, daughter of the richest Banker family in Portugal.
It has a Masonic and Templar Initiation Chamber in the basement,
Private chapel with Knights Templar motifs.
It also had the first mechanical elevator in a private home in Portugal and was the film location of Roman Polanski’s movie “The Ninth Gate” with Johnny Depp.
During this era, wealthy aristocrats, bankers, merchants, and individuals with old fortunes created magnificent summer residences in the Sintra mountains. Each estate competed with the others in terms of eccentricity and splendor.
The property also had some beautiful gardens and overgrown fountains.
I finally got back on track and made my way to my initial destination, Quinta da Regaleira. Although it looks ancient, it was built between 1904-1910, by a rich guy wanting to out-do the neighbors.
There were so many details everywhere I looked, every time I turned around.
The castle is impressive on its own, but the grounds are equally impressive. It has its own lakes, grottoes, benches, fountains
and towers.
It even has its own Catholic chapel. It is built to match the architecture of the palace.
The park also contains an extensive system of tunnels, which have multiple entry points.
The Initiation Well connects to other tunnels via a series of underground walkways.
It is 27 metre (88.5 ft) deep, and has a 27-metre spiral staircase, with nine flights of stairs has 23 small niches along the side.
The inland stone compass with the Templar cross hints at connections to the Templar Knights.
Alas, my 6 month sabbatical had come to an end. It was time to return to Canada.
An Old Lady with a Backpack 
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