N. MACEDONIA – SKOPJE & MATKA CANYON – An Old Lady with a Backpack

APRIL 20, 2025

On our way to Skopje, we made a brief stop at MATKA CANYON, as it was only 15 km outside of Skopje.

It is a popular getaway spot for tourists and locals, alike. The turquoise water surrounded by steep cliffs with lush greenery and razor sharp outcrops creates a stunning scene. Matka Lake is actually artificial and was created after the construction of a dam on the Treska River in 1938.

We walked along the water’s edge. There were slalom poles which I imagine were for the kayaks that could be rented.

Further along, the path was cut into the side of the cliff with stone retaining walls.

We spotted what looked like tiny dog houses floating on the water. They were for nesting birds.

We decided to take a boat tour to VRELO CAVE, one of the ten caves along the lake.

The ride did not seem like it took 20 minutes, as we were enthralled with the scenery.

The cave has many stalagmites and stalactites, including the “pine cone”.

There are also two lakes at the end of the cave. One is 8 metres (26 ft) at its longest length and 19 metres (49 ft) in depth. The larger lake is 35 metres (115 ft) long and 18 metres (59 ft) deep. The exact depth of the cave is unknown. We were only allowed as far as the lake. It was cool and damp, which was refreshing on this hot day.

Just outside of the cave, in the river, was a spot where water was mysteriously bubbling up.

There are many medieval monasteries along the lake. The ST. ANDREA MONASTERY is nestled on a small natural platform along the hiking trail and near the water.

The Byzantine church next to the monastery was built in 1389. The access to the interior was closed, but the outside was beautiful enough to look at.

It was not a large building, but the brick work was amazing. Even bricked over windows had a lovely design.

It was surrounded by shops and restaurants.

It was a wonderful side trip!

Next stop: SKOPJE, the city of statues. A massive earthquake destroyed 80% of the city in 1963. Economic challenges prevented the reconstruction for 40 years. It was at this time that the government started a project to ‘repopulate’ the city with statues, notwithstanding that 25% of the entire country lives in Skopje. The actual rebuilding of the collapsed city took on an imaginative and modern style. Being a culturally diverse city, Skopje is an eclectic mix of Christian and Islamic culture, that both proudly display. As with Tirana, Skopje decided to rebuild with style! The “Skopje 2014” project cost a controversial 500 million Euro. Many people lament that the culture and history of the city have gotten lost in the frenzy.

One building, the Feudal Tower built in the middle ages, managed to withstand the earthquake. Maybe they can hire the builder?

In 1912 Skopje was annexed by Serbia, during the Balkan Wars. Following WWII, it was part of Yugoslavia. Our GPS switched to a Russian-looking alphabet when we entered N. Macedonia. With AI, you would think it would remember that I still speak English, despite my location. (eye roll)

We stopped for a pizza in one of the many restaurants specializing in them.

Then we headed out to explore. Our first stop was the massive 18,500 sq m (199,000 sq ft) MACEDONIA SQUARE. It spans the Vardar River and is the city’s focal point. It was encircled by statues of historic importance

but also of a contemporary nature.

In the centre of the square was a massive STATUE OF ALEXANDER THE GREAT, though not officially named for him. It was built to commemorate 20 years the of independence of the Republic of North Macedonia.

There is no “South Macedonia”, so why the “North”? It is to distinguish it from the Greek region of Macedonia. The name was chosen to reflect the country’s location in the northern part of the larger historical region of Macedonia. Now you know.

The statue is 14.5 m (47.6 ft) tall and sits on a 10 m (32.8 ft) column. The column stands in a fountain. At the base of the column are 8 bronze soldiers, each 3 m (9.8 ft) tall. There are also 8 bronze lions, each 2.5 m (8.3 ft) tall, around the edges of the fountain pool, four of which act as part of the fountain, releasing water from their mouths. The fountain also plays music to which the fountain dances. It was spectacular.

Not far from the Square is where the birth HOUSE OF MOTHER THERESA once stood. She, herself, planted a pine tree in this location in 1980. However, the tree was damaged by a storm in 1922. A few months later and on the 19^th anniversary of the beautification of Mother Teresa by Pope John Paul II and in memory of the five members of her family, five seedlings from the original tree were planted.

We passed through the MACEDONIA TRIUMPH GATE which was flanked by two statues of revolutionaries. The Greeks launched an official complaint because the arch features historical figures, including Alexander the Great. Maybe that is why the official name of the great statue in the square is officially called the “Warrior on Horseback”.

Past the Macedonian Gate was MACEDONIA STREET. It is a pedestrian thoroughfare and shopping area. We were drawn to the ZENA BOREC PARK (or WOMAN WARRIOR PARK) across from the hubbub. It was filled with numerous statues and monuments.

MONUMENT OF THE DEFENDERS OF MACEDONIA is dedicated to the 75 Macedonian soldiers who died in the 2001 conflict with the ethnic Albanian National Liberation Army.

One of the monuments was the FALLEN HEROES OF MACEDONIA. It commemorates those who died the fight for Macedonia. It once featured an eternal flame, but it is not longer lit.

Another monument was the MONUMENT FOUNDERS OF IMRO (Internal Macedonian Revolutionary Organization). It features the founders of the organization. Their objective was to secure autonomy for Macedonia from Ottoman rule.

The ANTI-FASCIST ASSEMBLY FOR THE NATIONAL LIBERATION OF MACEDONIA MONUMENT commemorates those who were instrumental in defining Macedonian statehood within Yugoslavia, laid the groundwork for the country’s constitutional order, and emphasized equal rights for ethnic minorities.

We headed back toward Macedonia Square so we could cross the STONE BRIDGE to the Old Bazaar. The Bridge was built in 1451-1469 of solid stone blocks. It is supported by firm columns with 12 arches. It is 214 m (702 ft) long and 6 m (20 ft) wide. It is also a symbolic bridge linking old/new, majority/minority groups, and historic/socialist. There were street musicians on the bridge, mostly young kids pounding a modern beat on a traditional drum.

KARPOSH SQUARE, also known as REBELLION SQUARE, is on the opposite side of the river. It was named after Petar Karposh, a leader of a 17^th century anti-Ottoman uprising. The uprising was brutally quashed and he was executed on the Stone Bridge. His statue stands nearby.

The square has impressive fountains like the FOUNTAIN OF THE MOTHERS OF MACEDONIA, which has statues of a pregnant woman, a woman nursing her baby, a woman hugging her child and a child caressing his mother’s face.

Nearby was a building with numerous female statues along the third floor. Remember that we walked through the Woman Warrior Park. Clearly, women are held in high reverence.

Another notable statue is one of PHILIP II OF MACEDON, the father of Alexander the Great.

We wandered through the bazaar, which is second oldest in Europe, behind Istanbul. But we did not buy anything.

We were on our way to SKOPJE FORTRESS. It was built with yellow limestone and travertine on the highest hill in the 6^th century. In 1660 an Ottoman Empire chronicler wrote a detailed description of the beauty and strength of the fortress.

Alas, the 1963 earthquake damaged most of it.

What we saw was reconstructed walls and defensive towers.

It also had some modern and interesting sculptures.

From one of the towers we could look down on remnants of the former glory mingled into the existing park. Archaeological excavations unearthed many artifacts dating back to 3000 BC.

When we left the park we walked past the MUSTAFA PASHA MOSQUE, and again saw an elaborate foot washing station outside of the mosque.

The MACEDONIAN NATIONAL THEATRE OF OPERA AND BALLET was not only a beautiful building,

but the statues outside were whimsical and amazing.

There were lots and lots of statues and sculptures all over the city. Some showed the contrast in cultures and affluence. There was a sculpture of a beggar near the Bozinovski Watch House whose watches sell for the tens of thousands.

We wanted to go to the MEMORIAL HOUSE OF MOTHER TERESA, but unfortunately it was closed that day. It was more elaborate than I was expecting for a monument to a humble lady who served the poor and destitute.

Next door was a beautiful ORTHODOX CHURCH that was still under construction, 13 years since it began. It was a project to showcase the power and piety of the now fugitive Prime Minister, Nikola Gruevski. However, amid layers of political and church secrecy, the project has been sitting unfinished due to bankruptcy. Well, there’s a first! A church can’t pay its bills. Or did the government pilfer it away? It looked really elaborate through the fence.

Next to the unfinished church was the DALI APARTMENTS. I was interested in the quirky exterior design. It reminded me of a Gaudi creation. Apparently, it is an Airbnb and quite unique inside. Maybe next time….

Nearby, was a replica of the Wall Street CHARGING BULL. It was another part of the “Skopje 2014” project. Although it is like the Wall Street Bull, this one is meant to symbolize the strength fertility of the Macedonian people.

Our friend, Gavin, told us that we had to see the POST OFFICE. It is a futuristic building that looks like a cross between a castle, a flower and a bug.