CROATIA – DUBROVNIK

APRIL 30, 2025

We had not planned on going to Croatia, but Pierre had never been there, (I had been there in 2014) and Dubrovnik was not far off our planned route. If we have time for one stop, it has to be the Old City.

Simply driving up to the CITY WALLS will leave you gobsmacked. It looks like a proper walled city, with 16 towers, 3 fortresses, moats, drawbridges, numerous gates and other fortifications.

The walls were constructed between the 13th and 17th centuries. They stretch over 1.9 km (6000 ft) and are up to 25 metres (82 ft) high in some places. The walls vary in thickness, with the landward side being up to 6 meters thick and the seaward side between 1.5 to 3 meters thick. 

The Old Town and Walls is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.

The first place we visited was the RECTOR’S PALACE. It was built in the 14th century and was the seat of various government and administrators.  It also housed an armoury, the powder magazine, the watch house and a prison. Today it is a museum. One of the items that impressed me was an old trunk with elaborate locks.

There were also pictures of the damage the old city sustained during the war.

The foyer was amazing!

The DUBROVNIK CATHEDRAL was built on the site of several former cathedrals, including 7th, 10th, 11th and 12th centuries. The money to build the basilica was partially contributed by the English king Richard the Lion Heart as a votive for having survived a shipwreck on a nearby island 1192 on his return from the Third Crusade.

The TREASURY, located inside the Cathedral, holds 182 reliquaries holding relics from the 11th to 18 centuries. Its most important object is the gold-plated arm, leg and skull of St. Blaise (patron saint of Dubrovnik). Rather a gross collection, in my opinion.

The treasury holds also a relic of the True Cross. 

Tvrđava Minčeta (Minčeta Tower) is one of the protecting towers as well as the highest point of the city’s defence system. It was built in 1319.

We took a walk around the entire circumference of the CITY WALLS. It offers a fantastic bird’s eye view of the entire city. It gave us a better appreciation for this well preserved ancient site.

The vantage point also gave us a good view of the clear blue ADRIATIC SEA.

As well as a nice view of ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAIN. It is a large rounded polygonal shape structure with a cupola and 16 water taps. It has 16 stone carved masks and a statue of a dog on top. The water is safe to drink.

The main square and road are flat, but the rest of the old city is built onto the side of a huge hill. Be prepared to walk LOTS of steps.

The DOMINICAN MONESTARY consists of a friary, a church, a library, and a pharmacy. Beginning in 1317, took centuries to build, as parts were rebuilt several times.

The library (built in the 17th century) contains over 20,000 books, among them 1200 valuable old manuscripts, and the inventory of the old Friars Minor Pharmacy from 1317. The pharmacy dates from 1317 and is the oldest still-functioning pharmacy in Europe and the third oldest in the world.

The Cathedral also experienced damage during the war.

The CLOISTERS are always my favorite spot when visiting cathedrals. They are always beautiful and peaceful. I totally understand how monks would walk them and pray or meditate.

ST. SAVIOUR’S CHURCH and ST. BLAISE’S CHURCH were closed for some reason, so we did not explore them.

FORT LOVRIJENAC is outside of the city walls. We did not go there.

The drive to Croatia was lovely, as all roads in the Balkans were. This was the first time I saw a sign warning about pigs.

We found Croatia, and Dubrovnik in particular, to be very expensive. Bosnia and Herzegovina was a mere 15 minute drive, so we drove back across the border to spend the night, at a fraction of the price. We were heading to Trebinje, anyway.

It so happened that we were the very first guests for Ivanica. When we asked if there was a shop nearby, she said unfortunately there was no shop in this small town. We thought we would have to make do with ramen noodles again, but she brought us a charcuterie board! Amazing! She also had little candies for us to munch on. You would never get this kind of service in a fancy hotel.