SAN MARINO

JUNE 5-6, 2025

I spent the night in Bologna, then caught the train to Rimini, then a bus to San Marino.

The Republic of San Marino is the second smallest microstate within Italy. Vatican City is smaller. It is also the 5th smallest country in the world with a land mass of just over 61 sq. km (23.5 sq. mi). It has a population of about 34,000. It was founded in 301 AD as a monastic community on Monte Titano.

From a distance, it looks like a huge wave of rock jutting out of the landscape.

The most famous site are the THREE TOWERS OF SAN MARINO. They are named Guaita, Cesta, and Montale. They are depicted on the national flag and coat of arms.

Each tower / castle was perched precariously on the edge of a steep cliff.

The bus dropped us off and away I went to explore them. I headed to the THIRD TOWER (Montale) first. It was the furthest. It is located on the smallest of Monte Titano’s summits, but was by no means a stroll in the park.

There were places to stop and rest with seats carved into the rocks.

It was built in the 14th century as a guard tower and prison. The door was 7 metres (23 ft) from the ground.

The SECOND TOWER (Cesta) is located on the highest of Monte Titano’s summits. It was constructed in the 13th century on the ruins of an old Roman fort.

Today it has a museum showcasing items dating from the Medieval Era to the modern day.

The view was incredible from the watch tower.

There was a bridge between the 2nd and 1st tower.

And many, many steps.

The FIRST TOWER (Guaita) is the oldest of the three towers, and the most famous. It was constructed in the 11th century and served briefly as a prison. It was rebuilt numerous times and reached its current form in the 15th century.

The climb up into the watch tower was through a small hole in the ceiling and up a narrow and steep ladder.

view from one tower to the next

I could have taken in the historical aspect of San Marino, but I chose to see and do silly stuff instead.

San Marino is built on the back side of a huge cliff. Therefore, the streets are a maze of switchbacks. They are steep and the little side streets had me going the wrong way a lot of times.

I went to the MUSEUM of CURIOUSITIES, where I saw oddities such as this fart collector and rectum deodorizer. Yup, you stuff the plug up the butt and whenever you fart, it sends out a sweet smell. Another one sang like a bird when the gas passed.

How about these pubic wigs?

These defense shoes had a working gun in the heel. Stomp on the ground and three shots were fired. Look close for the openings.

I particularly liked these self defence gloves.

There were replicas of the longest hair, moustache, largest pearl, weird appliances, etc.

The VAMPIRE MUSEUM was more interesting than I thought it would be. I was expecting the horror aspect, but it actually explained how modern medical research can answer “monster” symptoms.

Rabies symptoms: anxiety, confusion, fear, light sensitivity, smell like garlic, face spasms, vomit blood.

Catalepsy symptoms: can see and hear but cannot move. Often believed dead, but can revive later.

Anaemia symptoms: lower than normal red blood cells and crave blood.

Porphyria symptoms: Extreme light sensitivity, excessive hair growth, receding lips and gums, garlic intolerance.

It also featured real-life, historical monsters such as Vlad the Impaler (1431-1476). He impaled 10,000 in one year alone. Initially he impaled his military adversaries. Impaling did not cause immediate death. He liked to see them suffer. He was a true blood-thirsty serial killer, whose position made it (almost) acceptable to kill.

Erzsebet Bothory (1560-1614) was obsessed with retaining her youth. She was rumored to bathe in the blood of virgins. She was a landowner and as such responsible for medical care of her tenants, who were brought to her castle. In particular, female landowners were charged with care of female patients. It was alleged that she tortured and killed peasants for years. Their disappearances did not provoke inquiry because the abuse of lower classes by nobles was not prohibited by law. However, she crossed the line by killing the daughter of a lesser gentry that was sent to live with her to learn the finer points of being a high-ranking countess.

In the end, 52 witnesses came forward claiming over 300 victims had died at Bothroy’s hand. To further the case, there was evidence of torture on some of the bodies that were exhumed.

The MUSEUM of TORTURE was exactly as the name implied. What stood out was the instruction books for torture. Really? The depravity of one’s imagination was not enough?

This vest was worn my jailors to take prisoners from the prison to the gallows. It protected them from attacks by the public.

I did not feel right about not seeing anything historical so I went to PALAZZO PUBBLICO. The Town Hall was built in 1297 on the edge of PIAZZA del LIBERTA. The Bell Tower (TORRE del MANGIA) was built between 1325 and 1344.

The entrance hall looked more like a fancy museum than a Town Hall.

Upstairs, it was odd to see modern computers and desks in a Gothic surrounding.

The BASILLICA of SAN MARINO had the most beautiful and moving statues of Jesus ascending into heaven that I have ever seen.

I decided to take the 3 minute funicular rather than the half hour walk down the mountain to my hostel.

I passed by lots of little restaurants and curio shops.

A park had beautiful, yet strange, statues.

Unlike many Airbnb or hostels, this one was easy to find. It had a cow on the roof.

The next morning I took the bus back to Rimini, and from there the train back to Bologna.

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