ITALY – BOLOGNA

JUNE 6-7, 2025

I was supposed to spend a couple of days in Bologna, visiting my friend Guilia. But my miscalculation in Florence had me down to one day. Just as well, Guilia was back in Canada.

One day was not nearly enough, but it did give me enough of an insight to know that I want to return one day.

As I have mentioned many times, the train stations in Italy are amazing. They are so well marked it is easy to get around. The ones in Bologna even had Braille on the stairwell railings.

There was a young fellow in the hostel who was busking in the evenings. He asked if he could join me for a while. I told him I was doing a whirl-wind tour of the city, and gave him my itinerary. He was fine with it, so we went off to find the SANCTUARY OF OUR LADY OF SAN LUCA. It is located on a forested hill just outside the city centre. There is a 3.8 km (2.36 mi) long portico, consisting of 666 arches, that leads up to the sanctuary. (It is interesting that 666 arches, the number of the devil, leads up to a church) Normally, I would have loved to walk it, but I was pressed for time. Nick said he knew a square nearby (Piazza Maggiore) that had taxi’s. Perfect!

When we got to the square, a guard told us there is a mini-train, for a fraction of the price, that would take us right to the Sanctuary. Even more perfect!

I was only able to take a picture of the length of the portico. It was impressive enough, but to realize it was built between 1674 and 1793, I was even more impressed. It was built to protect the procession carrying the Madonna with Child to the Cathedral during Ascension week.

The original church was built in 1193. The present church was constructed in 1723. It looked more like a castle or fortress than a church from the outside.

The interior was your typical grandiose marble, columns, and gold. Not to say it was not impressive, but after a while one blends into the other.

Neither of us were excited about looking around more, so we went back to the square and parted ways.

BASILICA OF SAN PETRONIO is a huge building (132 m / 433 ft long, 66 m / 216.5 ft wide, and 47 m / 154 ft tall) that was started in 1390. After a Cardinal sold some of the building materials and pocketed the money, construction halted. Decades later, a great dome was planned, but the project was considered too complicated by the Pope, and the work was halted again.

Its main façade has also remained unfinished.

The interior had beautiful rose coloured granite arches.

The canopy covering the main altar was very elaborate.

A very unique feature of this church is CASSINI’S MERIDIAN LINE. It is one of the largest astronomical instruments in the world. It is 66.8 m (219 ft) long. The sun shines through a tiny hole (27.07 mm / 1.066 in) in the wall that is 27.07 m (88.8 ft) high. At precisely noon the sun shines on a spot on the line, with every day being a different size and spot. It is a very precise measurement for 1655. I was there in the late afternoon, so I did not see it. Another reason to go back!

Other attractions in the square were PALAZZO D’ACCURSIO (Town Hall)

PALAZZO DEL PODESTA

NEPTUNE FOUNTAIN

It was a bit erotic.

SALABORSA LIBRARY

The ARCHIGINNOSIO PALACE, not in the square, was once the main building of the University. It was constructed between 1562-1563 and amalgamated various fields of study under one roof.

There are coats of arms all over the walls and ceilings representing the noble families and individuals associated with the university and showcasing their lineage and academic achievements.

It currently houses a library, containing ancient handwritten notes and letters. It also houses an Anatomical Museum.

I almost walked right past the SANCTUARY OF SANTA MARIA DELLA VITA. It was so small and plain looking.

The interior was similar to most old churches, but the reason I was there was to see THE LAMENTAION OVER the DEAD CHRIST. It is a group of 15th century terracotta life-sized sculptures that depicts the intense sorrow and grief around Christ’s lifeless body.

The contrast is striking, emotional, and breath-taking. I sat longer than I usually do, taking it all in. Imagining what they looked like when they were in full colour. Although, I think the image is more powerful with the raw terracotta.

There were placards explaining who the characters were.

From left to right: Nicodemus holds a hammer and pincers, used to free Jesus from the cross. Mary Salamone, mother of apostles John & James the Great. The Virgin Mary, looking as only a mother could at her dead son.

The Apostle John, with a look of disbelief. Mary of Cleophas, mother of James the Younger and Joseph, trying to push away the gruesome sight.

And Mary Magdalene, unleashing an ear-splitting scream as she rushed forward. Her robes are flying behind her. You can see the movement. You can hear the scream. It was breath-taking!

The artist, Niccolò dell’Arca, got his inspiration observing people outside of a hospital, where loved ones actually did die.

There was a small gallery in the upper part of the church that had some very nice pieces.

The TRANSIT OF THE VIRGIN, also in the church, is a group of 14 statues in terracotta (1522) by Alfonso Lombardi. My ticket included an audio commentary on this, but I cannot access it back in Canada. Basically, each figure had significance and it was all explained.

The TWO TOWERS OF BOLOGNA (Garisenda & Asinelli) are the two highest towers left of the 120 that once dotted Bologna. St. Bartholomew’s Church peeks from behind. The towers served as lookout points but also symbols of prestige. These two families had a fierce competition to see who could build the tallest. Asinelli Tower is 97 m (318 ft) while Garisenda Tower once stood at 60 m (197 ft) – it has since shrunk by 12 m (39 ft) due to unstable foundations. Both have a lean of 2.23 m (7.3 ft) and 3.33 m (11 ft) respectively.

Bologna used to be like Venice, interwoven with CANALS. As the water receded, the canals slowly got covered over and forgotten. There is one spot where you would think you were in Venice. The canal slips between the buildings,

then under the bridge you stand on, and then completely disappears under a restaurant. These pictures are taken from the exact same spot, I just had to turn around to get them.

My whirl wind tour of Bologna had come to an end. I had a 4:00 am train to the airport to fly back to London.

The portico that was so bright and lively during the day

was completely different, and a bit scary at 3:00 am.

This poor soul thought their bike was safe chained to a post. But not when a bus drives over it!