DECEMBER 10, 2025

Although I wrote another article about specific things we saw and did in Ubud, I want to write some general notes.
First of all, the weather here is a constant 28-30 C. (82-86F) It rains nearly every afternoon, in varying intensity. Bring an umbrella. Pack super light. You can buy cheap dresses, shirts, trousers and bathing suits of decent quality here. There are lots sandal shops, too. Bring a hat. The sun is hot.

It has gotten a lot busier than when I was here in 2011. Back then, Ubud had more of a village feel to it. We could walk down any street and barely see a scooter, let alone a car. Now the main drag is endless traffic.

The drivers are very courteous. Scooters will dodge around jay-walkers if you are also courteous to them. Don’t just jump in front of them. Learn to go to the middle of the street when there is a break in the on coming traffic (they drive on the left) and slowly start to weave through whoever else is coming. It takes some getting used to but is a very efficient way of crossing. Some busier areas have crossing guards, who blow a whistle and wave a flag to stop oncoming traffic.

There have been improvements to the infrastructure, such as proper sidewalks, but they have not withstood cars and scooters driving on them. I suspect that the soil was not properly compacted before laying the tiles. Also, concrete is mixed in small batches, on the street, from dirt, not proper aggregate; and therefore, not of consistent strength.

When one breaks free, the surrounding ones soon follow. We had to constantly watch where we were stepping.

There are a lot more shops and restaurants catering to tourists. The items and prices reflect what the entitled western tourist wants and expects. I find it takes away from the spirit of Bali.

The rice fields still maintain their charm and beauty. Walking to and through them was a pleasant way to get in our 10,000 steps.

Nasi goreng and mi goreng are just as good as they were 14 years ago. I ate them 3 times a day and never tired of them.

The Balinese dance performances are a cheap and entertaining night out. To watch their eyes dart this way and that while their hands move in impossible ways while being in sync was amazing.

GAMELAN SUARA is a “choir” of 100 men swaying and chanting in a primal almost demonic way. It is an experience you are not likely to forget anytime soon.

The daily offerings are still set out every day. However, when I was here last they were set out first thing in the morning. Now they were set out whenever it was convenient. 14 years ago they were all made by the homeowner. The ladies would spend hours making them in intricate designs so they were ready for the next morning. Now simple square ones can be purchased in shops. I felt that kind of lost the meaning behind the offering. I did not see the elaborate ones anywhere.

Their GALUNGAN Balinese Hindu holiday was taking place when we were there. There were more than the usual offering baskets on the streets. We watched as they built and erected the PENJOR. Some of these huge bamboo structures take over a month to make – all by hand. There are no shortcuts on this project. Maybe their time was used to build these monstrous structures in stead of the daily little ones. (?)

The Indonesian rupiah (IDR) is the currency and purchases are made in the 10s and 100s of thousands. My purse was always bulging with wads of cash, as most places still do not accept credit cards. The bigger shops and more modern stores catering to tourists do accept credit cards, but with a 3% – 5% commission is added on to the total price.

There are many money changers on every street.

There are markets all over the place. Some are in designated buildings, others take up an entire street, while others are like pop-up shops in vacant lots. Wherever they are, and however cheap the item seems, barter. It has been my experience that if you cut the price in half, they will counter and you will eventually settle on about 60% off their first price. When in doubt, begin to walk away, they will keep shouting a lower price. When you are almost out of earshot is when they will give you their bottom line. However, remember that they live on a very scant income. You may have gotten the item for dirt cheap, but you know in your heart you could have paid a bit more than their bottom line. Don’t be a cheapskate. And you also know that you will probably just throw that t-shirt or penis-shaped bottle opener away when you get home anyway.

Your guesthouse or hotel will offer tours and taxi services. Always double check the prices with GRAB, an online app similar to our Uber. They offer scooter, taxi and even fast food delivery service that is usually 20-30% less than your hotel service.

Always remember, if you want things like they are back home, then STAY HOME!
Shops carry a wide variety of items in a very small space. Do not expect to find a litre size bottles of shampoo. It most likely comes in a little foil packet for one washing.

Don’t be surprised or alarmed when you hear chickens clucking and roosters crowing in the middle of town.

Petrol is sometimes sold in old pop bottles. A sure measure.

Scooter repair shops are not always neat and tidy.

You can get your shoes, suitcase or umbrella fixed by a wizard on the street. I say wizard, because they can fix anything!

Building standards and codes are non-existent.

If a gecko shares your bedroom, Be Happy! The little bugger will eat every fly, mosquito and creepy crawly while singing to you with his jing-jok sound.

Don’t let the front of the doctor or dentist office throw you off. The inside is spotless and the team professional. And cheap.

Look around, pay attention. There is beauty everywhere you look. It is usually blended into the everyday life and culture.


Ubud has a definite chilled vibe that has to be experienced to be fully appreciated. Remember, you may have worked hard and saved all year to take this trip, but you are still miles ahead of the local people as far as creature comforts. Respect their way of life and please do not act like an entitled tourist!

Love your adventures and emails!
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