VIETNAM – NINH BINH – An Old Lady with a Backpack

MARCH 7 – 9, 2026

From Tam Coc we took a tour that took us to BAI DINH PAGODA, HOA LU ANCIENT CAPITAL, MUA CAVES, and a TRANG AN BOAT RIDE.

BAI DINH PAGODA

Although this pagoda looks old, it was actually built between 2003-2010. It covers 700 hectares (1230 acres). We only saw a few features, as we were pressed for time. This tour should have been broken into two separate tours, as we were rushed at every stop. When asked who wants to see the stupa, I threw up my hand. We were told we did not have time and would NOT be seeing it. Then why ask???

This pagoda is not old. However, they do boast the longest cloisters (1 km / 0.62 mi) lined with 500 stone Arhat statues, each weighing 4 tons, and 10,000 mini Buddhas inserted in the walls behind the Arhat statues.

It has two bronze bells; a 70 ton one, with a 36 ton one hanging directly above it.

There is also the largest bronze Buddha standing 100 metres. We did not see it because we had no time. I felt somewhat taken advantage of. I paid the same entrance fee as everyone else, but only saw a small portion of what was available. Our guide said to see everything would take a full day. I wish I had done better research. I would have taken a taxi and spent the full day.

Religion has become a big industry. Every temple and pagoda is trying to outdo each other with the biggest of this or that. Merchants sell incense sticks and flowers by the thousands. There are numerous other offerings for sale to appease the gods. Considering Gautama Buddha was a humble man, seeking enlightenment and refraining from attachment and desire, the commercialism of what I saw at many temples was upsetting.

The gift shops sold your typical tourist junk, but most had food items. Very strange.

HOA ANCIENT CAPITAL

Hoa Lư Ancient Capital was founded in 968 AD. It was the first capital of Vietnam. This ancient site served as the political and cultural hub. I don’t know what else this 300-hectare (741 acre) historical site had to offer, because the only thing we saw was a small temple with the statue of King Le Dai Hanh inside.

It was ornately decorated with intricate wood carvings. I did not feel guilty about sneaking a few pictures; because I read later that to properly visit this site takes 1-2 hours. We had 20 minutes.

MUA CAVE

MUA CAVE is a small cave located at the base of the main attraction, the VIEWPOINT, situated up a 500-step climb to a summit of a limestone mountain. There are two viewpoints. One is shorter, but a more rugged climb. The other is longer, slightly less rugged; but still challenging, to a viewpoint that gives you a 360 degree view. We chose the longer, higher climb.

Partway up was a resting platform that gave a beautiful view of the SAO KHE RIVER snaking through the limestone mountains.

On the other side we could look down on the shorter climb and the lotus pond beyond.

At the very top of our climb was a dragon statue. It was situated on a very sharp pinnacle and there was a queue waiting to go up, so we opted not to proceed.

We had a one hour stop, enough time to do one climb only.

TRANG AN BOAT RIDE

After our climb we were taken to the boat launch for the boat ride. We had to queue for about an hour, through many zig-zag lanes. It was actually a very efficient system, but there was SO many people it took a long time.

As the returning boats came in, dozens of ladies pulled the empty boats into place so we could board. The boatman quickly rowed away from the dock and handed us our life jackets.

Unlike the boatmen in Tam Coc, these guys rowed with their arms. They did encourage us to help with the extra oars he had on board. I didn’t row, but Pierre did for a while.

Our boatman said there are 2000 boats. He did 2 trips per day. Considering the ride was about 2-3 hours long, that means there had to be another boatman rowing when this guy took a break. If each boat ran 4 times a day, with 2000 boats at $13 CDN per person, and an average of 4 people per boat, that comes to $416,000 CDN per day! If they run 6 months a year (I don’t know how long the monsoons are) that comes to nearly 75 million Canadian dollars. The government runs all tourist attractions. Not a bad income for the country – with just one of their many attractions.

Enough about economics! The boat ride was amazing! As I said, it was about 2 hours long. It took us through the most beautiful karsts, through many cave tunnels, and along stunning open water spaces.

It was an absolute amazing way to end the day!

SIDE NOTE: We saw several rowers wearing jackets with large circular air vents on the back. I have never seen this before.

A few days later we walked back to MUA CAVE. We did not realize it was a mere 3 km away. The walk took us past a cemetery that was divided into small shrines. I am sure each shrine was a family plot and not just for one person. They were elaborately decorated.

I found it curious that there was an electrical box in the cemetery. Why?

Past the cemetery we walked through acres and acres of rice fields. It was so green and tranquil. We saw a few farmers working in the distance.

Now that we had the time, and no one rushing us, we climbed both viewpoints at Mua Cave. The smaller one was definitely more rugged, but we had a better view of the lotus pond.